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The
food of India, much like its population, is so diverse that it is
difficult to make any meaningful generalizations about it. But while
flavors, ingredients, preparation techniques, and dietary
restrictions of subcontinental
cuisine vary—sometimes widely—by region, religion, and class, there
is at least one common element that connects virtually all Indian
localities to each other, and to cultures all over the world. This
element is curry, which can be generally defined as a blend of
spices, herbs, and chilies, often cooked in oil and made into a
sauce, gravy, or stew base. The Indian diet is highly stratified,
with various dietary rules placed on different groups (i.e., beef is
forbidden in the Brahmin diet, and pork is not eaten by Muslims),
but most Indian communities freely enjoy spice blends of some sort (Khare,
Srikanth).
Thus, curry can be considered a truly popular culture in India.
It should be noted, however, that the term “curry” is not recognized as
widely in India as it is in other countries where Indian food has
become popular (namely, the United Kingdom, the United States,
Trinidad, and
Japan.) “ There is the North Indian yoghurt-based preparation called
‘Kahri’ and there is the fragrant herb called ‘curry leaf’ – a
favorite in South Indian cuisine,” but there is no word quite as
all-encompassing as the English "curry" (Basu x). The word has no
real counterpart in India’s many languages, and so its
etymology is disputed by historians (Grove 2004).
Likely
theories on the origins of "curry" :
1) It is derived from kari,
a word from the Tamil language of southern India and Sri Lanka,
which means “a sauce or relish accompanied by rice,” which was
referenced by Dutch explorers as carriel and Portuguese
gourmands as caril in the late-16th and 17th centuries.
2) It is derived from the
Hindi karai, a wok-shaped saucepan used for preparing spicy
gravies and sauces.
3) It is not derived from any
subcontinental root, but from the Old English word cury,
meaning “cookery,” a derivative of the French cuire, meaning
“to cook.”
Regardless of its origins, it can be
said fairly decisively that since there is no word in any Indian
language that denotes the whole range of spice blends used in the
subcontinent, the word “curry” is a British invention, possibly a
misappropriation of a preexisting Indian word used to describe
something more specific (Yule 281-283).
While it may seem
Eurocentric and Orientalist to apply a word of Western origin to a
cultural product of Indian origin, the word “curry” can be useful in
understanding Indian cuisine, since it provides a heading for a
general category of food eaten more or less all-inclusively
throughout India. While specific recipes vary greatly, fiery spice
blends are an essential part of the Indian gastronomy, and they have
come to represent Indian culture abroad in the colonial,
postcolonial, and global eras. Therefore, it is also interesting to
consider the extent to which the word “curry” is still associated
with India in countries such as Britain and Japan, and the extent to
which it has been assimilated into those countries’ own culinary
culture. |
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